NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

E3V3A
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by E3V3A » Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:27 pm

Okay guys, it's not enough to just "measure" voltage on the Rx/Tx pins with a multimeter, because a multimeter averages the voltage it sees, so if you see garbage and measure, you'll get a different result, than if you see "nothing"... I suspect this is a 3/5V voltage problem!
HW: UE40ES5700SXXH
FW: T-MST10PDEUC-1029.0 Onboot: 1003

arcadian2002
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by arcadian2002 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:31 pm

I SHOULD HAVE STATED, THAT CONTINUITY AND OHMS WERE CHECKED TO, I JUST NEVER MADE A NOTE OF THOSE VALUES.
SORRY FOR THE CAPITALS MY MISTAKE,
would you mind describing whhat you mean by "I suspect this is a 3/5V voltage problem!"
and what I can do to verify this

Cheers
Ian


P.S I cannot get my hand on a osilliscope, so its multi meter or nothing for me PLZ dont kick me to hard...lol..

arcadian2002
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by arcadian2002 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:39 pm

would it do any harm just to connect up the boards TX pin3 at the 'bead filter' and GND contact to see if the board still shows garbage.

Ian

E3V3A
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by E3V3A » Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:15 pm

Not sure, but perhaps:
1. Make a simple voltage divider on your receiving pin, using two resistors. (Check wiki link and use the calculator to get the right voltages.)
2. Try to measure some other UART output, like from insode your router or whatever. Try to verify exactly what is this cable you have. 95% of peoples troubles (with correct Tx/Rx configs) are with crappy cables!
HW: UE40ES5700SXXH
FW: T-MST10PDEUC-1029.0 Onboot: 1003

arcadian2002
Posts: 32
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:01 pm

Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by arcadian2002 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:39 pm

sounds like a good plan, should I place the 2 resistors onto my cables Rx and take the voltage out from those resitors to my BD players Tx pin i.e VT601's +3v, I assume we are trying to achive a steady 3vout from the divider?
sorry for the crued diagram but is this the correct divider approach?

Thanks
Ian
Last edited by arcadian2002 on Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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greenhorn
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by greenhorn » Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:54 pm

Just out my pins. But no success with Putty.
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arcadian2002
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by arcadian2002 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:10 pm

Did you just get garbage, I know its bad news for you greenhorn, but atleast it gives me hope that CN801 may be the correct UART after all and we could be one very big step closer for hackerkind.

ian
Last edited by arcadian2002 on Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

arcadian2002
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by arcadian2002 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:23 pm

can someone tell me if lopiva 16g05 (see bd7000 schematic) is a simple bead filter? and if so what ohm rating doe it have ?

thanks
Ian

arcadian2002
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by arcadian2002 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 8:40 pm

Connecting up to the CN801_D could not be easier, note that because we are not going to use or install SMD's VT601 OR VT602 we need to solder our DKU5 wires to the PADS adjacent to the CN801_D UART HEADER by sImply soldering the DKU5 wires as follows :-

1. First the DKU5 Rx wire in my case this is coloured purple solder this to the CN801_D's Tx Pad 1

2. Next connect the DKU5 Gnd wire (my DKU5 has 2 Gnd wires White and a Black) to either Pad 2 OR 4 they both serve as Ground pads.

3. Before connecting up the DKU5 Tx wire (mine is Green) to the CN801_D Rx Pad 3 perform a quick COM's test with PuTTY as described in a previous message.

4. If you have succesfully established COM's with the mainboard with PuTTY has displaying the Players boot log, procced to solder the DKU5 Tx wire to Pad 3, AND THATS IT WITH THE SOLDERING ASPECT.

For those that like them I have attached a CS6 image of how this looks..

A BRIEF WORD ON SOLDERING PCB's and SMD's
For those that are apprehencive about soldering, maybe you have struggled in the past or you've seen youtube videos were the guys seem to solder with such ease, let me tell you its all about the soldering iron and thickness of solder, if your iron is getting on in age or simply be left turned on without need chances are that the thermostat has begun to breakdown and be continually heating up and cooling down, which not only makes soldering frustraiting ,it appears imposible. Soldering Irons do not have to be exspencive and none have a vast working life, granted the more expencive types have better thermostats and will therefore be more reliable over time, but for us infequent users a cheap soldering Iron will be fine, personally I like either pistol grip or pencel type, and if you are looking to purchase one for the sort of work we are doing here I can HIGHLY RECOMMEND the following ebay Item : 320876036715, it is a 25W to 130W Switchable Soldering Iron Gun not only (IMHO) is it perfeect for small PCB work its delivered to the UK for under ?7.00 Bargain.

Solder
We are not trying to weld the fourth road bridge, WE WANT TO SOLDER QUICKLY WITHOUT ALLOWING TO MUCH HEAT TO BUILDING UP INTO THE PCB, so thin solder is a must, I personally like the lead free -4% SILVER-0.4mm-2% FLUXED, using Flux paste also helps to hold in place those tiny SMD's while bringing in the iron.

I hope that info was useful, even if a little bit of topic..
Ian
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Last edited by arcadian2002 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:25 pm, edited 7 times in total.

sbav1
Official SamyGO Developer
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Re: NEW MEMBER AND A NEW BD-E6100 TO HACK

Post by sbav1 » Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:54 pm

arcadian2002 wrote:can someone tell me if lopiva 16g05 (see bd7000 schematic) is a simple bead filter? and if so what ohm rating doe it have ?
No, it's most certainly not a filter!!! I'm pretty sure it's bidirectional TVS diode, rated at 12V.

Edit: Datasheet is here (Vop=5V, Vmax=12V). And you don't really need them, those two components are 100% redundant.
BTW, Samsung developer choice to suppress voltage at 5V, and not at 3.3V, does somehow suggest their UART port pins might be actually 5V-tolerant - I dunno..

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