FW: T-MST10PDEUC-1029.0 Onboot: 1003
SORRY FOR THE CAPITALS MY MISTAKE,
would you mind describing whhat you mean by "I suspect this is a 3/5V voltage problem!"
and what I can do to verify this
P.S I cannot get my hand on a osilliscope, so its multi meter or nothing for me PLZ dont kick me to hard...lol..
1. Make a simple voltage divider on your receiving pin, using two resistors. (Check wiki link and use the calculator to get the right voltages.)
2. Try to measure some other UART output, like from insode your router or whatever. Try to verify exactly what is this cable you have. 95% of peoples troubles (with correct Tx/Rx configs) are with crappy cables!
FW: T-MST10PDEUC-1029.0 Onboot: 1003
sorry for the crued diagram but is this the correct divider approach?
TV: UE55ES7000S - T-ECPDEUC-2003.4 - SamyGO tool Right from USB - no develop account is needed
TV: UE40C6710 - T-VALDEUC 3011 - Hacking TV over Hotel mode (C650 T-VALDEUC-3009.2)
BD-Player: BD-E6100 - B-FIRBPEWWC 1063.3 - rooted, no more Cin@vi@
NAS: CIFS: MAG250 NFS: Playon!HD
1. First the DKU5 Rx wire in my case this is coloured purple solder this to the CN801_D's Tx Pad 1
2. Next connect the DKU5 Gnd wire (my DKU5 has 2 Gnd wires White and a Black) to either Pad 2 OR 4 they both serve as Ground pads.
3. Before connecting up the DKU5 Tx wire (mine is Green) to the CN801_D Rx Pad 3 perform a quick COM's test with PuTTY as described in a previous message.
4. If you have succesfully established COM's with the mainboard with PuTTY has displaying the Players boot log, procced to solder the DKU5 Tx wire to Pad 3, AND THATS IT WITH THE SOLDERING ASPECT.
For those that like them I have attached a CS6 image of how this looks..
A BRIEF WORD ON SOLDERING PCB's and SMD's
For those that are apprehencive about soldering, maybe you have struggled in the past or you've seen youtube videos were the guys seem to solder with such ease, let me tell you its all about the soldering iron and thickness of solder, if your iron is getting on in age or simply be left turned on without need chances are that the thermostat has begun to breakdown and be continually heating up and cooling down, which not only makes soldering frustraiting ,it appears imposible. Soldering Irons do not have to be exspencive and none have a vast working life, granted the more expencive types have better thermostats and will therefore be more reliable over time, but for us infequent users a cheap soldering Iron will be fine, personally I like either pistol grip or pencel type, and if you are looking to purchase one for the sort of work we are doing here I can HIGHLY RECOMMEND the following ebay Item : 320876036715, it is a 25W to 130W Switchable Soldering Iron Gun not only (IMHO) is it perfeect for small PCB work its delivered to the UK for under ?7.00 Bargain.
We are not trying to weld the fourth road bridge, WE WANT TO SOLDER QUICKLY WITHOUT ALLOWING TO MUCH HEAT TO BUILDING UP INTO THE PCB, so thin solder is a must, I personally like the lead free -4% SILVER-0.4mm-2% FLUXED, using Flux paste also helps to hold in place those tiny SMD's while bringing in the iron.
I hope that info was useful, even if a little bit of topic..
No, it's most certainly not a filter!!! I'm pretty sure it's bidirectional TVS diode, rated at 12V.arcadian2002 wrote:can someone tell me if lopiva 16g05 (see bd7000 schematic) is a simple bead filter? and if so what ohm rating doe it have ?
Edit: Datasheet is here (Vop=5V, Vmax=12V). And you don't really need them, those two components are 100% redundant.
BTW, Samsung developer choice to suppress voltage at 5V, and not at 3.3V, does somehow suggest their UART port pins might be actually 5V-tolerant - I dunno..